Run Taurus®, Run

In early 1985, Ford® brought a pair of Taurus ® prototypes to the Chicago Auto Show -- one with a traditional grille and one with a floating Ford oval where the grille normally would be found. Auto-show visitors overwhelmingly favored the car without the grille and that is the version Ford® built. By 1986, the Taurus® and its Mercury® counterpart, the Sable, were gracing showrooms everywhere.

By 1992, Taurus® had become a household name and became the best-selling car in the industry, unseating the Honda® Accord®, which held the title from 1989 through 1991. Oddly, GM®, as well as Chrysler®, celebrated the Taurus® victory because it deposed a Japanese nameplate at a time when Japanese cars were perceived as superior to U.S. makes. Taurus'® sales victory gave all U.S. cars instant credibility. Taurus® held the title from 1992 through 1996, before the Toyota® Camry® stepped up to win the crown.

Despite all of the Taurus'® accolades, manufacturing shortcomings can sometimes become apparent when subjected to the rigors of extremely hot driving conditions and outside contaminants. One such component falling victim to those kinds of conditions is the fuel pump.

Ford® Taurus® models built between 1989 - 1995 operating in hot, ambient temperatures and/or high altitudes may exhibit reduced power, hesitation, and stalling at low vehicle speeds or idling, and a no-start condition may occur. In addition, a no-start may result while the engine is still hot and the vehicle has been parked for a short period of time. A stall may also occur on acceleration from a stop. These problems could be caused by a lack of vapor ports in the fuel pump, resulting in a vapor lock condition or internal high wear of the fuel pump components due to tank contaminants.

First, a diagnostic check of the fuel injection system should be performed. If the condition still exists after all diagnostics are followed, replace the fuel pump with a new turbine fuel pump. Also, replace in-line fuel filter with a new filter. The new turbine fuel pump will reduce the possibility of vapor lock in high ambient temperatures.

Replacing the Fuel Pump
WARNING: Because of the combustion characteristics of gasoline, always use extreme care when removing and installing any fuel system component.

Removal
1. Depressurize the fuel system by cranking the engine for a minimum of 15 seconds with the electrical connector at the Inertia Switch® disconnected, or by using a fuel pressure gauge.
2. Remove the fuel from the fuel tank by pumping out through filler neck using suction hose.
3. Disconnect and remove the fuel filler tube.
4. Support fuel tank and remove fuel tank support straps. Lower the fuel tank partially and remove the fuel lines, electrical connectors and vent lines from the tank. Remove the fuel tank.
5. Remove any dirt that has accumulated around fuel pump attaching flange so that it will not enter the fuel tank during the removal and installation.
6. Turn the fuel pump locking ring counterclockwise using the fuel tank sender wrench.
7. Remove the fuel pump and bracket assembly.
8. Remove the seal gasket and discard.

Installation
1. Clean the fuel pump mounting flange, fuel tank mounting surface and seal ring groove.
2. Place a light coating of oil on a new seal ring to hold it in place during assembly and install it in fuel ring groove.
3. Install the fuel pump and sender assembly carefully to ensure that the filter is not damaged.
4. Hold the assembly in place and install locking ring finger tight. Ensure that all locking tabs are under the tank lock ring tabs.

NOTE: Ensure that the locating keys are in the keyways and the seal ring remains in place.

5. Secure the unit with locking ring by rotating ring clockwise using fuel tank sender wrench until ring stops against the stops.
6. Position the fuel tank to the vehicle and support tank while connecting the fuel lines, vent line, and electrical connectors to the appropriate places.
7. Install the fuel tank in the vehicle and tighten straps.
8. Install the filler tube and the attaching screws.
9. Install a minimum of 10 gallons of fuel and check for leaks.
10. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for three seconds repeatedly (5 to 10 times) until pressure gauge shows at least 30 psi. Check for leaks at the fittings.
11. Remove the pressure gauge, start engine, and recheck for leaks.

If an unusual amount of contaminants were found in the old fuel filter, flushing the fuel tank while it's out would be recommended. You should allow about two hours to complete the job and charge for performing the diagnostic routines. Isn't it great when one repair can solve a wide variety of problems?

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