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So many codes - easy fix for Eclipses®!

My Mom called me at the shop last Thursday. After her customary half-hour monologue on the subjects of driving my motorcycle too fast, eating right and not calling her enough, she mentioned that the ABS warning light on her car was on. She drives a 1995 2.0 liter Mitsubishi Eclipse. (I wonder where I get the lead foot?) She said there was no hurry to fix it but that the light was very distracting. She was mostly worried she might get in a horrendous accident because of it. Aren't Moms great at making you feel guilty? I think its part of their job description.

Being the dutiful son that I am, I brought my scan tool over to her house that night after work. Following a great dinner and getting the latest gossip on what our relatives were up to, I went out to the garage and connected the scan tool. To my surprise, ABS codes 41, 42, 43, 51, and 53 were set. It seemed strange that so many codes were present at the same time. I told her I wanted to get more information and look for any possible TSBs related to these codes.

The next day at the shop, I researched my ALLDATA automotive information database and sure enough, found a TSB addressing this problem. This is what the bulletin related:

On some 1995 Eclipse models equipped with ABS produced before 5/24/95, corrosion in the front-end harness splice near connector A-23, or corrosion in the connector, could cause the ABS warning light to illuminate and possibly set one or more of the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) 41, 42, 43, 51, and/or 53. These conditions may be corrected by performing the following repair procedure.

1. Record the preset radio stations and radio code if applicable. Then disconnect the battery.

2. Raise the vehicle.

3. Remove the left front wheel and wheel well splash shield.

4. Remove the left side engine room cover (transmission splash shield).

5. Remove the ABS hydraulic unit cover.

6. Disconnect the A-23 and A-24 connectors from the ABS hydraulic unit.

7. Inspect connector A-23 for corrosion. Remove any corrosion then proceed with step 8.

Note: If cleaning will not sufficiently remove the corrosion, do not continue with this procedure. Replace the front-end electrical harness and reinstall all parts removed in the previous steps.

8. Remove the corrugated tubing from the harness in the area of the splice shown. Then remove the black tape wrapped around the harness to access the red/black wire splice located about six inches from the A-23 connector.

9. Inspect for corrosion at the splice joint. If there is corrosion at the splice, remove the corroded portion.

Regardless of presence of corrosion, solder the wires, using the preferred method:

Insert the stripped ends of the wires into a split brass tube (solder splice) if available, and crimp the wire ends together, making a good mechanical joint.

Apply solder to the splice at the crimp mark, using only enough solder to achieve a good connection.

Apply 3M 6149 Electrical Moisture Sealant (or 3M AUTOTECH Moisture Resistant Wrap PIN 054007-03748 available in auto parts stores) around the solder connections.

1. Wrap electrical tape around the tubing to prevent the wires from protruding. Reinstall inside the corrugated tubing.

2. Reinstall the ABS hydraulic unit cover.

3. Reinstall the left front wheel and wheel well splash shield.

4. Reinstall the left side engine room cover (transmission splash shield).

5. Reconnect the battery and reset the radio stations and clock.

Saturday morning, I took the necessary tools and the TSB information back over to Mom's house. Sure enough, the corroded connector was the problem. I made the repairs outlined by the TSB in about an hour and reset the ABS warning light - just in time for a cup of coffee and the latest details on Aunt Mary's latest surgery.